rticles to read on the history of Red Lake
County:
Beginnings of Red Lake Falls and Red Lake County (by Virgil Benoit)
Red Lake County Separates from Polk (by Charles Boughton Sr.)
Ice
Age History
Indian
History
White Man History
BEGINNINGS OF RED LAKE FALLS AND RED LAKE COUNTY
by Virgil Benoit
The pages that follow are meant to illustrate
that the large number of French Canadians who settled in the
vicinity of Red Lake Falls in Red Lake County in the 1870s and
1880s was not an accident of history. From the time of the
arrival of the first explorers in northern Minnesota to the
settlement of Red Lake Falls led by Pierre Bottineau in 1876 it
is apparent that a steady contact was maintained by the French
Canadians with the area for over two hundred years. It is the
nature of this contact which offers the basis for the present
study. Relying on documents that have been left to us from
earlier times, the following pages attempt to shed light on the
motivations for early travel in northern Minnesota, the types of
persons who ventured such travel, their relationships with one
another, the people they met and whose lives they affected, and
the country they, discovered and developed.
For the sake of convenience I have incorporated
references to documents into the text but always in an
abbreviated form. The complete reference can always be found by
referring to the bibliography at the end of this article.
The individual motives of the first French
explorers in northern Minnesota are complex, but basically dual
in nature. First of all legend had it among the French that there
was an inland passage to the great "Western Sea". Since
the French had taken possession of the land along the Saint
Lawrence, it was only natural to seek the passage to the West
along the Great Lakes. Secondly, the West was rich in fur bearing
animals, the pelts of which could easily pay for the high costs
of exploration. The individual motivations of the early explorers
apparently ranged from the get-rich-quick type who sought only
pelts to purest idealists who were pushed on solely by the quest
for adventure.
The first French explorers who came possibly as
far as Minnesota were Pierre d'Esprit, sieur de Radisson and
Medard Chouart. sieur de Groseilliers. These men, whose
adventures during the mid-seventeenth century had acquainted them
with the West as well as with aspects of the fur trade at
Montreal disagreeable to them, joined the British controlled
Hudson's Bay Company in 1667. The historian of this English fur
company, which would rival for monopoly of the fur trade of the
West and North until 1870, wrote that these early adventurers
"brought both the knowledge and enthusiasm of the Canadian
coureur de bois, the wood-runner at home with the Indian and
content to winter in the woods, and some fixed and pertinent
geographical notions of their own, to London." These
earliest Canadian explorers are typical of those who came to
Minnesota over the next two hundred years. (Blegen, 36-37; Rich,
1:23 (quote))
It was in the 1670s and 1680s that Minnesota
came under control of the French for numerous explorers were
quickly inspired by the mood prevalent in freshly Organized New
France. Louis Jolliet explored the headwaters of the Mississippi
and mapped the area. Daniel Greysolon, sieur du Luth traveled in
the area of present day Duluth and to the southwest where another
group of Canadians led by Father Louis Hennepin was exploring
central Minnesota. "One of the dramatic episodes of western
history is the meeting of the two French groups in the heart of
the Minnesota country, at a Sioux village on the shores of Mille
Lacs." In 1688 Jacques de Noyen journeyed from Quebec west
to Rainy Lake and in the spring of 1689 went as far as Lake of
the Woods. He was followed in 1717 by Zacherie Robutal de la
Nouë who went in search of the Western Sea. (Blegen, 45-63; 46
(quote); Burpee, Journals. . ., 6-7)
In 1718 a trading post was established at Rainy
Lake while other posts were being set up along the Mississippi.
Between 1731 and 1748 Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, sieur de la
Verendrye and his men established nine posts extending from the
Grand Portage to the Forts of the Saskatchewan. But in all of
this activity la Verendrye felt no nearer to the "Sea of the
West" and so he turned the direction of his explorations
toward the south, going at least as far as the present city of
Pierre, S. Dakota. La Verendrye died in Montreal in 1749 without
having discovered the "Sea of the West". History has,
however, honored him as a major figure for his contribution to
the development of the Northwest. (Rich, 1:51 6-51 8; Henry,
XXVI-XXVII, Burpee, Pathfinders. . ., 89)
The eighteenth century witnessed not only the
intensification of the fur trade and exploration, but the great
conflict between the English and the French. In the East the
clash was to be most abrupt and final. By 1760 the English had
conquered Canada. But the call of the west for French Canadians
was not silenced. Adventure and risk associated with the peoples
and wilds of the west had now run for over three generations in
the hearts and minds of the French Canadians. The fall of New
France did not mean the end of those Canadians who lived by means
of the canoe, the trap and the gun for the lure of the west had
not died; in fact, in many ways it was now greater than ever.
One Canadian who did not abandon the west at
the time of the Conquest in 1760 was Jean-Baptiste Cadotte. He
had been in the vicinity of Sault Ste. Marie since 1751 and it is
there that the English fur trader Alexander Henry found him and
his family on May 19, 1762. Henry who wanted to establish himself
in the fur trade requested that Cadotte, who knew the Indians
extremely well, became his partner for "M. Cadotte enjoyed a
powerful influence over their conduct. They considered M. Cadotte
as their chief; and he was not only my friend, but also a friend
to the English. It was by him that the Chipeways [sic] of Lake
Superior were prevented from joining Pontiac. "Cadotte's
"powerful influence" stemmed in no small way from the
fact that like so many of his compatriotes he lived among the
Indians and had married one of them. "His Ojibway wife
appears to have been a woman of great energy and force of
character, as she is noted to this day for the influence she held
over her relations - the principal chiefs of the tribe; and the
hardy, fearless manner, in which, accompanied only by Canadian
'Coureurs du bois' to propel her canoes, she made long journeys
to distant villages of her people to further the interests of her
husband." (Tobola, 1 4, Henry, 1 49 (first quote); Tobola,
16 (second quote))
Through the Cadotte and Henry partner ship,
trade with the Indians was developed toward the west. "By
1766 Alexander Henry and his partner Cadotte brought down from
Fond du Lac fifteen hundred pounds of beaver in addition to otter
and marten, and in the next year over a hundred canoes came to
Michilimackinac from the north-west
" Since the English
had taken over the administration of Canada the arrangement
between Henry and Cadotte was a kind of "new" model for
trade and exploration "with an Englishman organizing and
financing, and to some extent hiring, to some extent sharing, the
skill and knowledge of the French voyageurs." (Rich, 2:11
(first quote); 27 (second quote))
On a trading venture in 1775 to Lake of the
Woods, Henry met with a village of Indians. He describes the
nature of his relations with them: "From this village, we
received ceremonious presents. The mode with the Indians is,
first to collect all the provisions they can spare, and place
them in a heap; after which they send for the trader, and address
him in a formal speech. They tell him, that the Indians are happy
in seeing him return to their country; that they have been long
in expectation of his arrival; that their wives have deprived
themselves of their provisions, in order to afford him a supply;
that they are in great want, being destitute of every thing, and
particularly of ammunition and clothing
.."
As the white traders moved into northern
Minnesota, the Chippewa became dependent on them and frequently
moved with them. The Indian population of northern Minnesota was
not high. Perhaps as few as 1,000 Chippewas were living along the
Red River around 1795. Yet, the demands of the fur trade were in
such excess that by this same period the supply of fur bearinq
animals was all but depleted in the Rainy River area. In 1798 the
geographer David Thompson described the situation of the Indians
in Northeastern Minnesota. "By the extent of their hunting
grounds each family of seven souls, has 150 to 180 square miles
of hunting ground, and yet (they) have very little provisions to
spare; this alone is sufficient to show the ground does not
abound in wild animals. The Beaver has become a very scarce
animal. . ." It is therefore apparent that by the end of the
eighteenth century the northwestern economy based mainly on fur
trade was showing signs of weakening. But before the country
would begin to open up to permanent occupancy, the fur companies
were to make one last great stand in northern Minnesota. (Henry,
241-242 (first quote), Hickerson, 303, 297; Tyrell, 249 (second
quote))
In 1789 the Hudson's Bay Company proposed a
"series of posts radiating out from Osnaburgh southwards -
at Sturgeon Lake, Red Lake, Portage de l'isle and Rainy Lake . .
." The establishment of a post at Red Lake meant that trade
would also develop along the Red Lake and Red Rivers since they
formed the water way to Pembina and the posts of the north.
Moreover, the area of the Red Lake River which extended into the
regions where buffalo grazed was highly strategic in the
development of the fur trade. In establishing posts along this
route the Hudson's Bay Company was securing for itself the
pemmican, or dried buffalo meat, so necessary for its traders.
"Though the fish and the wild rice of the Rainy Lake
Department were invaluable, and any rival who diverted Indians
there from providing such food for the brigades was accepted as a
menace out of all proportion to the furs which he might trade,
yet it was pemmican from the Red River Department which was
essential for the Northwest brigades. Without it the canoes would
be forced to 'hunt their way' inland, and an extra season would
be needed to reach the North Saskatchewan or any land
beyond." Thus the Red Lake River posts were meant to be a
strategic hold against the traders of competitive fur companies,
who, like the traders of the Hudson's Bay Company sought to
secure their trade in the far northwest. By 1826 there were as
many as seventeen trading posts in the upper Mississippi country.
(Rich, 2:1 28 (first quote); 180 (second quote); 518-519)
"To Jean Baptiste Cadotte Jr. [sicl is
given the credit for completely opening to the fur traders the
region about the upper Mississippi." Jean Baptiste had
followed in the footsteps of his father, the great fur trader and
partner of Alexander Henry. Jean Baptiste Cadotte, Jr. spent the
winter of 1797-8 at the strategic forks of the Red Lake and
Clearwater Rivers, or the present site of the town of Red Lake
Falls. "Mr. Cadotte in the employ of the Northwest Company,
probably spent the winter of 1794-5 at Red Lake and the next year
at Red Cedar or Cass Lake, while the season following, 1796-7 was
passed at Red Lake once more. . . . He was in charge the next
winter of the trading house of the Northwest Company located on
the Red Lake River on the present site of the town of Red Lake
Falls." On March 25, 1798 the geographer and surveyor David
Thompson, who like Cadotte was in the employ of the Northwest
Company, visited Cadotte's house at the fork of the Red Lake and
Clearwater Rivers. About his visit Thompson wrote: "Mr.
Baptiste Cadotte was about thirty-five years of age. He was the
son of a french gentleman by a native woman, and married to a
very handsome native woman, also the daughter of a Frenchman: He
had been well educated in Lower Canada, and spoke fluently his
native Language, with Latin, French and English. I had long
wished to meet a well educated native, from whom I could derive
sound information for I was well aware that neither myself, nor
any other Person I had met with, who was not a Native, were
sufficiently masters of the Indian Languages. As the season was
advancing to break up the Rivers, and thaw the Snow from off the
ground, I enquired if he would advise me to proceed any farther
with Dogs and Sleds: he said the season was too far advanced, and
my further advance must be in Canoes . . . 11 (Tobola, 44 (first
quote); 45 (second quote); Tyrell, 251; 252 (third quote Spelling
and punctuation have been reproduced here as in the original text
as edited by Tyrell .))
Because of the severity of the spring thaw and
rain which accompanied it, Thompson returned to Cadotte's house
March 31 at which time he spoke with the Chippewa chief of the
Red Lake Indians and observed some Indian dances. Thompson
concludes about the area: "The course of this River is from
the south westward until it is lost in the Plains, the groves are
at a considerable distance from each other, by no means
sufficient for the regular Farmer, but may become a fine pastoral
country, but without a Market, other than the inhabitants of the
Red River." Thompson left Cadotte's house on April 9 with
his crew of three French Canadians and the wife of one of the
men, a native woman. They took the Clearwater River since they
were travelling in a birch canoe and the Red Lake River still had
ice on it from the Lake. (Tyrell, 265 (quote); 266)
The first settlers in the far north were
brought in by Lord Selkirk and founded Selkirk Colony, or Red
River Settlement, in 1812. They were mainly Scotts direct from
Europe, but some French Canadians did settle among them. By the
1820s this mixed population numbered about 1,500 souls. The
territory they were originally granted ran from the shores of
Lake Winnipeg on the north to the present site of Grand Forks on
the south. The boundaries to the east and west were less
determined. (Ross, 20; 78; 1 0)
The arrival of the settlers of the Red River
Colony introduced a new way of life to the northwest. In
cultivating the land, they were very different from the
nomadic-like Indians, French and mixed bloods, who had been the
sole possessors of this vast territory for centuries. A new type
of pioneer who would settle on and cultivate the land had just
arrived and for a while he was not very successful, but history
was soon to favor him. In writing of the Europeans, who had come
to Red River to settle, and of the Indians and French native to
the area, the Red River historian Alexander Ross remarked:
"We have to notice a marked difference between the Europeans
and the French. In the spring of the year, when the former are
busy, late and early, getting their seed into the ground, the
Canadian is often stuck up in the end of his canoe fishing
gold-eye's, and the halfbreed as often sauntering about idle with
his gun in his hand." Ross, however, viewed more favorably
the French Canadian who showed signs of settling and, thus,
resembled more the newly arrived Europeans of which Ross himself
was a member:
The Canadian of any standing is tidy in his
dwelling: the floor is kept clean, the bed neatly made up and
generally set off with curtains and coverlet; the little
cupboard, if there is nothing in it, is still orderly and clean;
in short, everything else just as it ought to be. On the
contrary, the half-breeds, generally speaking, exhibit more of
the discomforts that attend a mere encampment in their dwellings.
When anything is wanted, everything in the domicile has to be
turned topsy turvy to find it, and the inmates sleep as contented
on the floor as in a bed - a sort of pastoral life, reminding us
of primeval times. Among this class, the buffalo robe is more
frequently to be seen than the blanket in their dwellings. The
better sort, however, have their houses divided into two rooms;
but they are all bare of furniture, and ornament never enters,
except occasionally a small picture of the Virgin Mary, or a
favorite, apostle, hung to the wall in a little round
frame."
Like history, the nineteenth century historian
of Red River favored the settler. Adventurers would still pass
through, but they too were changing and rather than rally the
Indians to a trading post they now were beginning to suggest
settlement of this land. (Ross, 1 94 (first quote); 1 95 (second
quot-VII
Another settlement in the northwest that was
growing in the early nineteenth century was located at Prairie du
Chien. Until the 1840s when St. Paul became a growing center the
Prairie du Chien settlement was considered the closest to Red
River Colony. In 1820 a group from Red River Colony traveled to
Prairie du Chien where they bought seed-wheat since their crops
had been destroyed the two previous years by grasshoppers. This
friendly gesture by the Prairie du Chien Colony toward the more
unfortunate northern settlement certainly contributed to the
development of the north. But a policy much more hostile in
intent by certain members of the Prairie du Chien Colony toward
the Red River Colony encouraged settlement in the north even
more. (Tass6, 1:169, Blegen, 156; Ross,50-51)
One of the ambitions of Lord Selkirk was to
protect trading interests of the Hudson's Bay Company. On the
other hand, Prairie du Chien was the center from which a great
deal of competitive fur trading was being carried out against
Hudson's Bay. One man from Prairie du Chien who joined the ranks
of the competitors of the Hudson's Bay Company was Joseph Rolette. His father Joseph had settled in Prairie du Chien where
the younger Joseph was born about 1820. It was the younger Joseph
Rolette who, in joining forces with Norman W. Kittson in the
1840s, brought northwestern Minnesota into the realm of growing
St. Paul and away from the orbit of the British control fed
Hudson's Bay Company. "
In 1843 he began the 'Cartline'
to fetch American goods from St. Paul to Pembina. Within ten
years almost two hundred Red River carts were regularly engaged
in the five-or six-weeks' journey on the 'Cartline', the annual
value of the furs carried to the States had risen to about twenty
thousand dollars, the American Fur company established its
headquarters at St. Paul in 1849, and several other companies
rose to share in the promising trade." (Ross, 17-18; Blegen,
70-81; Tass6, 2:33; Rich, 2:1 59 (quote))
Joseph Rolette not only diverted trade from the
Selkirk Colony toward St. Paul, he also brought Minnesota to the
attention of many future Settlers. Some of the surnames of
persons living at Prairie du Chien in the 1820s which appear
later among the settlers of northwestern Minnesota are: Gauthier,
Mercier, Menard, Hebert, Lariviere, Prevost, Laframboise, Rivard,
Gendron, Roy and Dionne. But persons like Rolette also traveled a
great deal and spoke with parties interested in settlement from
Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, the Dakotas and points east. The
Rolettes were a very well known family who had traveled to New
York and been cordially received by the great fur merchant John
Jacob Astor. People moved about, and paths crossed in more ways
than history has recorded. Father Joseph Cretin who became the
first Bishop of the see of St. Paul had been at the Prairie du
Chien settlement, and the Reverend Lucian Galtier who built the
chapel of St. Paul in 1841 from which the city took its name died
at Prairie du Chien. In 1839 Bishop Loras from Iowa Territory
accompanied by one of his priests visited a settlement at the
junction of the Minnesota and the Mississippi. "They spent
about two weeks in the community, and from their records we know
that they counted no fewer than 185 Catholics, nearly all of whom
spoke either French or Sioux." (Tasse, 1:173, 206; Blegen,
154-155, 155 (quote))
It is apparent, therefore, that from the early
nineteenth century communication was developing and settlements
were being created from southeastern Minnesota to the
northwestern corner of the State where Pembina marked the border
on the north. The Rolette and Kittson enterprise between Pembina
and St. Paul which continued until the late 1860s brings us to
the period of intense settlement in Red Lake County. Some of the
first persons closely associated with the settlement of Red Lake
County were of the large family of French Canadians and mixed
bloods who were so very familiar to the entire northwest.
(Holcombe, 46-49)
Some of the early settlers to come to St. Paul
whose surnames appear later in Red Lake County are: Bottineau,
Gervais, Labissonniere, Cloutier, Pepin, Desmarais, Bazile,
Laroche, Benoit, and Fournier. Pierre Bottineau, born in Red
River Settlement and trained as a scout, guide and fur trader
certainly viewed the junction of the Red Lake and Clearwater
Rivers where he founded Red Lake Falls as an advantageous site
for a town. He was very influential in bringing settlers to Red
Lake County. An early settler of this area recalled: "Pierre
Bottineau and his son, John B., brought in a large number of
French Canadians from Ramsey and Hennepin Counties, Minnesota,
and also quite a number from the East, locating them along Red
Lake River from Louisville to Red Lake Falls, and along
Clearwater River from Red Lake Falls to Lambert." The year
was 1877 and already many factors pointed to a rapid settlement
of the area. In 1863 a treaty with the Red Lake and Pembina bands
of Chippewa Indians at the Old Crossing of the Red Lake River had
opened some three million acres of land to eventual settlement.
The railroad had reached Fisher's Landing in 1875. Furthermore,
since the 1850s "Every effort was made to reach the minds of
easterners and immigrants with Minnesota propaganda."
(Tasse, 2:14-1 5; Holcombe, 72 (first quote); Blegen, 181 (second
quote))
Pamphlets and advertisements describing
Northwestern Minnesota were distributed in the United States as
well as abroad. In 1883 a group of French Canadians wrote and
published at Crookston a twenty-two-page pamphlet entitled
Description de la Colonie Canadienne du Comte de Polk, par un
comit6 de Canadiens-franais. The pamphlet not only described Polk
County but also listed twenty Canadians who were prepared to
furnish information to their compatriots wishing to settle around
Crookston, Carmen, Fisher, Gentilly, Red Lake Falls, Terrebonne,
Emardville, Lambert, Lafontaine, Riviere Voleuse (Thief River),
Louisville, Riviere Noire (Black River), and Lac aux Erables
(Maple Lake). The names of those from Red Lake Falls who offered
to help their compatriots were Isaie Gervais and George
Labissonniere; Terrebonne, Roch Lizee; Emardville, Pierre Emard;
Lambert, Patrice Lemay; Louisville, L. Hout, and Riviere Noire,
D. Bray.
In 1879 the Reverend Pierre Beaugrand Champagne
arrived in Red Lake Falls to serve his compatriots. Father
Champagne had been ordained in 1867 by Mgr. Louis-Francois
Lafleche, bishop of Trois-Rivieres,Quebec who had himself been a
missionary in Red River Colony from 1844 to 1856. Until a church
could be built the Reverend Champagne said mass in the home of
Isaie Gervais. (Fetes jubilaires Esquisse. 58)
As in the case of so many adventurers and
pioneers who had preceded him, the West for the Reverend
Champagne seems to have held in its mystery and people a public
and personal challenge. A challenge as complex and sacred as the
motivation of the earlier adventures, and one to which he and
they always remained faithful.
Since the beginning of Red Lake Falls in 1876
many people have joined the town and the surrounding community.
It is their story that is told in the following pages. My desire
has only been to shed light on the nature of the very early
beginnings of several communites of French-Canadian origin in
northwestern Minnesota and, in particular, in Red Lake County.
Virgil Benoit teaches in the Department of Romance Languages and
Literatures and in the Canadian Studies Program at the University
of Vermont in Burlington. The son of Mr. and Mrs. Maurice Benoit,
he was raised in Louisville Township, Red Lake County where he
spends some time each summer. He has also written a history of
Gentilly and Polk County from 1873 to 1973.
- Blegen. Theodore C. Minnesota: A History
of the state, (Minneapolis, 1963).
- Burpee, Lawtence J.. editor. Journals and
Letters of Pierre Gaultier de Varennes de la Verendrye
and his sos. (Toronto, 1927).
- Pathfinders of the Great Plains. Toronto,
1922).
- Esquisses - La Ville de Duluth: L'Eglise
Catholique et la Colonle Franco-Americaine, a Duluth.
(Duluth, n d ),
- Fetes jubilaires celebrees aux
Trois-Rivieres les 24 et 25 fevrier 1892. (Three Rivers.
n,d.).
- Henry, Alexarvder. Travels and Adventures
In Canada and the Indian Territories between the Years 1
760 and 1776. (Rutland, Vermont. 1969).
- Hickerson, Harold. "The Genesis of a
Trading Post Band: The Pembina Chippewa".
Ethnohistory(Fall 1956, vol. 3, no. 4).
- Holcombe, R. I. and Bingham, William H.,
editors. Compendium of History and Biography of Polk
County, Minnesota. (Minneapolis. 1916).
- Rich, E. E. The History of the Hudson's
Bay Compafiy 1670-1870. vol. 1:1670-1763 (London, 1958).
- The History of the Hudson's Bay Company
1670-1870. vol. II: 1763-1870 (London, 1959).,
- Ross, Alexander. The Red River Settlermnt:
Its Rise, Progress. and Present State. (London. 1956).
- Tasse, Joseph. Les Canadions de l'Ouest. 2
vols. (Montreal. 1882).
- Tobota, Thomas H., editor. Cadotte Family
Stories, (Cadott, Wisconsin. 1974).
- Tyrrell, J. B., editor. David Thompson's
Narrative of history
RED LAKE COUNTY SEPARATES FROM POLK
By: Charles Boughton Sr.
Red Lake County, the mecca of home seekers, the
brightest star in that terrestrial milky way known as the Red
River Valley, though the youngest county in the state in point of
years, is old in its battle, not for existence, but for their
right to exist.
On Christmas Eve, 1896, Governor Clough,
assuming for the moment, the part of a beneficient Santa Claus,
issued his proclamation declaring Red Lake a duly established and
existing county of the State of Minnesota, and thereby conferred
upon its citizens the most material and lasting benefits they had
received for many a long year.
But this result was not attained until after a
long, hard struggle, which did not end even with the victory
gained, and the final culmination of which reflects credit upon
the little circle of men who bore the brunt of it; who spent
their time, money and ability, year after year, in a seemingly
vain endeavor to plant Red Lake county upon the face of the map,
and to whom defeat had become so common that when victory came
they were scarcely able to realize the astounding fact that they
had at last won out.
Prior to its organization the territory now
comprising Red Lake was a part of its present neighbor, Polk
County. Polk was created away back in 1858, and in its early days
sprawled its great mass like an enormous jelly fish over nearly
the whole northwestern corner of Minnesota, including all the
present counties of Polk, Norman, and Red Lake, over half of
Beltrami, and parts of Clay, Becker, and Hubbard. Its area was
over 7,000 square miles. The states of Connecticut and Delaware
and the District of Columbia, capital and all, might have been
placed within its limits and room left for an army to march
around the borders. It could have included fourteen of the
oldworld kingdoms of Europe without squeezing, with a dukedom or
two thrown in to fill the cracks. Gradually the legislature
chipped off a slice here and a slice there until in 1882 Polk was
left with the territory now comprising Polk and Red Lake
counties. It was still large and unwieldy, the fourth county in
the state in size, containing 3160 square miles, larger than the
states of Delaware, Rhode Island and the District of Columbia
combined. Crookston, its county seat, drew all the strength of
the county to itself, with but poor returns on its part. The
outlying towns and farming districts were scarcely recognized
except for the payment of taxes. The county officers were
strangers to the remote townships whose money they handled.
Political corruption thrived and a "ring" at Crookston
held perpetual lease of the county offices and grew fat on the
revenues paid in by the olitsiders. All the outlying towns, Red
Lake Falls, St. Hilaire, Fertile, Fosston, McIntosh and East
Grand Forks were kept down and their growth stunted by the
persistently successful efforts of Crookston to centralize in
herself all the business, power and "booty." As
Crookston waxed rich, the other towns waxed poor, arid the
farmers surrounding them, deprived of a proper market for their
products, unless they hauled them to Crookston, twenty, thirty,
forty and fifty miles distant, suffered accordingly and lost
their farms on mortgages. Red Lake Falls was the first to awaken
to the existence of the situation.
She had men of energy whose business interests
coincided with their wishes, that Red Lake Falls and the county
adjacent to it should prosper. In the winter of 1886-87 Ernest
Buse, W. A. Schreiter, F. E. Hunt, Chas. Langevin, J. T. Knight,
H. J. Kaufer, Zaiser Bros., and a few others initiated a movement
to form the eastern part of Polk into a new county, with Red Lake
Falls as the county seat. A bill was to be put through the
legislature, and funds were raised, and Ernest Buse and J. T.
Knight spent the winter in St. Paul lobbying in the interests of
county division. The bill was introduced, favorably reported by
the senate committee, and the world began to look brighter in the
future Red Lake County. But Crookston appeared in the field with
a lobbying committee, and more money and more influence than Red
Lake Falls could command. Lumber and railroad interests were
drawn into the fight in favor of Polk. The local members of the
legislature favored Crookston. Red Lake stock went down out of
sight, and when the battle ended the county division bill was
buried beneath one hundred and sixty others that failed to pass.
Thus ended the first chapter.
In 1890 a few of the businessmen of Red Lake
Falls, notably J. T. Knight, L. A. Kaufer and J. A. Duffy,
resurrected the county division corpse, aided by Jos. 1. Wyer,
Theo Garceau, F. E. Hunt, W.A. Schreiter, Joseph Smith and
others. New life was injected into the enterprise. It was decided
that Polk County was several times too large, anyway. Red Lake
Falls would call to her aid other towns, which had experienced
the "frozen heart," and instead of being delivered of
one unruly child, Polk should have triplets. Fosston, East Grand
Forks and Red Lake Falls should each be the county seat of a new
county, and by combining their strength and money would defeat
the Crookston schemers. A mass meeting was called of all outside
towns, to be held at Red Lake Falls, to which only Fosston and
East Grand Forks responded. Committees were appointed and the
outcome was that Joseph Smith was sent to St. Paul to have
drafted and introduced in the legislature, a bill to submit to a
vote of the people the question of dividing Polk into four
counties. But Crookston was on the alert and through her senator,
E. E. Lommen, and other influences at her command so discouraged
the divisionists that the bill still peacefully slumbers in a
pigeon hole at St. Paul, having never seen the light of day.
Fosston's enthusiasm too, died away, and about this time the
constitution of Minnesota was so amended as to do away with all
special legislation. The mercurial hopes of the Red Lakers
dropped to forty-two below zero and froze up. But a
characteristic of Red Lake Falls' citizens has ever been
stick-to-it-iveness and a faculty of not knowing when they're
beaten.
With the meeting of the legislature of '92 and
'93 the old war horses of former battles bobbed up serenely and
"got into the game." Meetings were held in Red Lake
Falls, committees appointed, the aid and funds of the village
council invoked and pledged, and J. T. Knight was sent to St.
Paul to have drafted and passed, if possible, a bill providing a
mode of procedure for dividing any county in the state. Mr.
Knight devoted his energies to the matter and spent the winter in
St. Paul in its interests. The bill was drafted by a
constitutional lawyer, introduced, and though Crookston lobbied
hard against it, affe, many defays and references to committees,
it passed and became a law. McIntosh having been taken into the
division plan in place of Fosston gave some aid in this fight.
The home committee in charge of division matters at this time was
composed of L. A. Kaufer, J. A. Duffy, Fred Gesswein and J. T.
Knight. The new law required a petition for each proposed new
county signed by fifteen percent of the voters of the old county
to be filed with the secretary of state. The governor, secretary
of state and state auditor constituted a board to pass on the
petition and if found conformable to the faw, the governor was to
issue his proclamation submitting the question to a vote. In
July, 1893, three petitions were circulated in Polk County, one
calling for the formation of Red Lake County, with the county
seat at Red Lake Falls; one for Nash County with the county seat
at East Grand Forks; and one for Columbia County, with the county
seat at McIntosh. The requisite number of signatures to each
petition was quickly obtained, and though Crookston again
interfered by invoking the aids of the courts to prevent the
issuing of the governor's proclamation, fortune favored the
right, and the three new counties were ordered to be voted on.
The subtle minds of Crookston again set to work
and evolved a curious scheme. They induced the people of Fosston
to petition for the formation of Nelson County, to overlap the
territory of both Columbia and Red Lake, with Fosston as the
county seat. This picture was largely signed in Crookston, and
the support of the voters of that city and vicinity pledged to
carry the Nelson County proposition, provided that the Nelson
County people would help down all the others. All were to be
submitted to a vote at the 1894 general election. A hot campaign
ensued. Plotting, planning, lying, selling, promises easily made
and more easily broken, town against town, neighbor against
neighbor. Laughable incidents occurred. One prominent farmer
agreed, for a consideration to deliver the vote of his entire
town, and when the ballots were counted he had not even
controlled his own vote. Everyone in the town had voted on the
other side. The old Red Lake Falls committee had secured
reinforcements of new men, among them J. D. Marshall, Dr. N. M.
Watson, Theo Garceau, A. P. Toupin, C. N. Bourdon, J. M. Bray,
Wm. Findeisen, Mike Jeffers, A. D. Berry, J. B. Hebert, Swan
Anderson, and the writer took more or less active parts in the
campaign. Political issues were lost sight of and the only
influences brought to bear on voters was for or against county
division. Election day dawned, cold and bitter, snow falling to
the depth of two feet. Red Lake Falls, like the hub of a great
wheel, sent spokes (no pun intended) out in every direction, men
to every polling place, to influence votes.
We lost, Crookston won. Every proposition went
down to defeat, Fosston and East Grand Forks defeating the others
and Crookston playing traitor to Fosston.
Hope long deferred maketh the heart sick.
County division was again a corpse. As if to
drive another nail in the coffin, at the next meeting of the
legislature, Crookston, with but faint opposition on our part
caused the division law to be so amended that a voter might vote
for or against only one proposition, no matter how many were in
the field. With this amendment the Crookstonites considered their
armor complete and invulnerable, and lo, there was great
rejoicing in their camp, for they thought the county division
question was settled forever. But this very amendment proved
their undoing and they fell in the pit they themselves dug.
The ghost of Red Lake County wouldn't stay
dead, but persisted in coming to life and clothing itself in
another attempt to beat the master minds of Crookston city down
the river - and fate.
As the general election of 1896 drew near. the
battle-scarred veterans of former county division fights, not a
doubter or laggard among them, gathered together at the center of
gravity, Red Lake Falls, and decided to make another attempt to
throw off the tyrant's yoke. It was determined that since old
Polk would have neither triplets nor quadruplets, we'd go her one
better, and try for quintuplets; Red Lake, with the county seat
at Red Lake Falls; Hill, with the county seat at East Grand
Forks; Garfield, with the county seat at Fertile; Nelson, with
county seat at Fosston, and leave Crookston with just enough of
old Polk to make a pleasant driveway around the city limits, so
that her citizens might drive out evenings and gaze over the
lines at the prosperity which was not of their making. Indeed, it
was proposed that we should all turn in first and move the county
seat from Crookston to Fisher and divide afterwards, but we
lacked the time, so that part of the plan did not materialize.
Petitions for the four new counties were rapidly circulated and
signed. It was feared that as the law now stood only one
proposition could be voted on at any election, so a friendly suit
was brought to determine this. The Supreme Court decided that any
number of propositions could be submitted to the people, but each
voter could vote for or against only one.
Then the subtle Crookstonites evolved a plan
that was indeed a credit to them. They inoculated Thief River
Falls with the county seat germ, induced its citizens to
circulate a petition for the formation of Mills County, with
county seat at Thief River Falls, and then with soft words and
endearing promises led McIntosh to circulate a petition for the
formation of Columbia County. Now Mills County was to overlap the
proposed territory of both Red Lake and Hill, and Columbia was to
overlap Red Lake, Nelson and Gargield, so if all carried, there
would be several counties piled one on top of the other, and the
idea was that the courts would declare all illegal, and Polk, one
and indivisible. And this very thing nearly happened. Votes were
at a premium. The fact that a man could vote only for or against
one county made his vote all the more valuable. Workers were sent
from every town to corral the farmer vote. Canvassers from
Crookston met canvassers from Red Lake Falls at country homes and
wrangled over a vote as dogs over a bone. Committees met every
night and discussed the situation. Lots of voters in every town
were procured and that particular man was sent to each voter who
would be most likely to influence him. Speakers were hired and
schoolhouse meetings held. The committee of each proposed county
was suspicious of the committee of every other county. Amateur
secret service men were sent out to learn the intentions of
"our friends, the enemy." The writer was sent incognito
to McIntosh and Fosston and was present at committee meetings in
each town learning the secret intention of the committees as to
the disposition of the votes at their command, without being
otherwise known than as an innocent commercial traveler.
As before, politics was lost sight of. The
question of the hour was, "What's the prospect for county
division?" Some men gave all their time to the work and
accomplished a great deal. Others gave all their time and
accomplished very little. One man was sent into an unknown
territory to canvass votes. He spent several days and announced
on his return that the voters there were unanimous for Red Lake.
On election day they voted ten to one against Red Lake. New men
joined in the battle. All the old fighters were there, and we
added to our list many new names, notably Hon. Marcus Johnson, a
power in himself, and worth a dozen ordinary men.
The work continued to the closing of the polls
election day. Teams were hired to bring voters to the polls.
Placards and bills (in violation of election laws) were displayed
in every polling place and even hung in the secret booths. Men
were detailed to help unlettered voters mark their ballots. These
tactics were resorted to by all the opposing parties, so none had
cause to complain.
When the votes were counted Red Lake, Mills and
Columbia had carried by a majority; Nelson had lost; Garfield was
in doubt. Red Lake had received votes as follows: for 922,
against 449; Mills, for 334, against 56; Columbia, for 575,
against 107; Garfield, for 603, against 608. Here was a situation
Crookston had anticipated. Red Lake had carried; but Mills and
Columbia also carried, covered its territory. Who was to say
which was the right county, since the three were piled upon each
other? We had won, and yet lost. It was like eating the Dead Sea
apple which looks beautiful to the eye but crumbles to ashes at
the touch. But the man of the hour was at hand, and here, more
than ever before, we recognized the value of a "pull."
Hon. Marcus Johnson by his great political influence at St. Paul
induced Governor Clough to issue his proclamation declaring Red
Lake a duly created county, and the governor further refused to
issue any proclamation for Mills or Columbia.
It should have been stated before that in the
proposition to create Red Lake County submitted to a vote, five
good men and true had been named as its first board of
commissioners, as follows: Samual Gibeau, of Lambert; Wm. C. L.
Demann, of Lake Pleasant; K. M. Hansen, of Thief River Falls; 0.
J. Johnson, of Wyandotte; and Swan Anderson, of Black River.
The governor's proclamation was issued the day
before Christmas, 1896, and was kept secret from newspaper
reporters or Crookston agents who were then in St. Paul, as it
was feared that injunction proceedings would be brought to
prevent the organization of our Board of Commissioners. Secretly
and swiftly it was brought to Red Lake Falls by Mr. 0. J.
Johnson, arriving Christmas Day. A terrific blizzard was blowing,
piling the snow drifts eight feet high, but teams were sent to
the five quarters of the county to bring in the county
commissioners. It was resolved to organize as soon as possible
after midnight. As the night wore on the belated commissioners
struggled in through the storm, the last one arriving about three
o'clock in the morning, and all through the dark hours a wearied,
anxious group of men, the leaders of the division movement, sat
in the union club rooms and worried lest at the last moment a
writ of injunction might arrive from Crookston.
At 3:00 a.m., December 26, the commissioners
took their oaths of office and before daylight Frank E. Hunt
drove to Crookston to file in the office of the Clerk of Court
certified copies of the governor's proclamation with the
commissioners' oaths of office endorsed upon the back. Crookston
awoke to its first realization that a new county had been born.
At last we had won. Our victory was complete.
It is safe to assert that no happier lot of people ever
celebrated the holidays than the worthy citizens of Red Lake
Falls that Christmas week in 1896. Our county board met,
appointed a full set of officers and Red Lake County became a
reality.
But it was not in the nature of our opponents
to give up even then. They laid all information before the
attorney general and caused an action of quo warranto to be
brought in his name, on behalf of the state, against our board of
commissioners, to determine the legality of Red Lake County.
Eminent counsel was employed on both sides. The supreme court
decided that of all the counties voted upon Red Lake alone was
legal because it had received both a majority of the votes cast
on that proposition and a plurality over its competitors, Mills
and Columbia. Thus ended the fight, and though there have since
been other matters of dispute between Polk and Red Lake, the
question of our organization has never been further disputed.
To the men who planned and directed the
execution on both sides of this long continued fight, great
credit is due. Yet republics, even in miniature, are proverbially
ungrateful, and many who did their utmost for their respective
sides, both in Crookston and Red Lake Falls, have scarcely
received thanks for the work.
Since the formation of our county, Red Lake and
her citizens have gotten rapidly ahead. Every city and village in
the county has doubted or trebled in wealth and population.
Farmlands have increased in value, jumping from $4 and $5 per
acre to $18 and $25 per acre. Farmers have paid off their
mortgages. Rates of interest have dropped from twenty percent to
six. Great saw mills have been built to employ laboring men.
Industrial improvements have been made. Drainage ditches are
being dug. We have our own representatives in the legislature.
Foreign capital has been attracted to our county. Farmers are
leaving their old settled communities in Iowa and flocking to our
new and fertile lands. We are no longer a distant suburb of
Crookston. We are free and independent. Red Lake County has
become a bright and shining mark upon the map, and the visions of
prosperity which seemed but dreams to the rebels of 1886 have
become a glorified reality to the patriots of 1901.
ICE
AGE HISTORY
About 10,000 years ago the last glacier that
covered this area retreated northward as it melted, leaving
behind a mantle of glacial debris. With the melting of the
glacier, a vast quantity of water was produced. The retreating
glacier prevented the Northward drainage of this water, thus
trapping it and forming a huge lake called Lake Agassiz.
This lake covered all of Red Lake County,
although it was relatively shallow throughout this area. The
soils of Red Lake County are the result of the sorting action of
this water or developed on the sediments of this glacial lake.
There, were long periods when the lake stayed
at a fairly constant level which is shown by the presence of
gravel ridges found in the southern central and western parts of
the County.
Originally the soils in the western part of the
County developed under a prairie grass vegetation which today is
just on the eastern edge of the Red River Valley. The eastern
portion often supported a growth of aspen and scattered oak trees
as well as areas of open marsh and some areas of prairie grasses.
INDIAN
HISTORY
The Northwestern part of Minnesota was
originally the land of the Nadowa, or the Dakota Sioux and they
lived here for many centuries.
The Ojibway or Chippewa Indians originally
lived in the eastern United States but were gradually driven
westward by the fierce -Iroquois. The Chippewa tribes were a
peaceful people and they adopted the white mans tools and customs
as they moved westward and became proficient in the use of
firearms.
By 1660 a few of the Ojibway hunting parties
had entered Minnesota, but they did not remain for it was the
land of the Hadowa.
By the 1730's the Sioux turned against the
French traders with whom they had been living in peace and began
a series of raids. One of their war parties killed a Chippewa
family near Lake Superior. That event marked the beginning of the
Chippewa march into Minnesota against the Sioux. These Indian
wars lasted nearly 50 years. By 1770 the Chippewa became the
dominant tribe in a wide area of Northern and Central Minnesota,
including the Red Lake area.
The Chippewa Indians called Minnesota's two
largest lakes the "Red" lakes because of the color of
the water when reflecting a summer sunset. This name, translated
into English, was later used by the white men for Red Lake and
was also used for Red Lake River and Red Lake County.
WHITE
MAN HISTORY
The beginnings of habitation by white men in
this area can be traced back to 1798. In that year David Thompson
became the first white man to explore the area.
That same year also saw the beginnings of the
first permanent settlement of white man when a Frenchmen by the
name of Jean Baptiste Cadotte established a British fur trading
post for the Northwest fur Company at the confluence of the Red
Lake and the Clearwater Rivers. These two rivers join in the
northwestern section of present day Red Lake Falls.
Rivers and lakes were one of the primary means
of transportation during this period. The Indians, early
explorers, traders and settlers followed a water route from
Duluth to Cass Lake, to Red Lake and over the Red Lake River
through Red Lake County on their way to the Red River of the
North.
Land transportation using oxen and the big
2-wheeled carts was also an important way of delivering goods and
supplies during this period. A major north-south route called the
Pembina Trail connected St Paul and St. Cloud with Pembina, which
is in the extreme Northeast corner of North Dakota on the United
States Canadian border.
The East Plains portion of the Pembina Trail
passed through the western part of Red Lake County and the place
where the Red River Carts crossed the Red Lake River became known
as the Old Crossing.
In 1863 the Red Lake and Pembina bands of the
Chippewa tribe of Indians, ceded Northwestern Minnesota to the
White man in a ceremony at the Old Crossing on the Red Lake
River. This site is now the Old Crossing Treaty State Park and is
located near Huot in western Red Lake County.
The Old Crossing Treaty opened 3 million acres
of land to settlement by the White Man that was previously
controlled by the Chippewa Indians. The original settler was
Pierre Bottineau who was a famous guide. Bottineau Hall at the
University of Minnesota in Minneapolis is named for him, as are a
county and a town in North Dakota. A motel here in Red Lake Falls
is named the Chateau Bottineau.
Pioneers of French and French-Canadian descent
were the first settlers to move into the area after the treaty
was signed. Later other settlers of varying descents moved in
including German, Finnish, and Norwegian. The first permanent
settlement was established in 1876. We celebrated our 100th
anniversary in July of 1976, which coincided with the celebration
of the nations 200th birthday.
On December 24, 1896, Red Lake County was
formed from a portion of what was then Polk County. Several years
later on November 23, 1910, Pennington County was formed from the
northern half of Red Lake County. Today Polk County is south,
east, and west of us and Pennington County is on the North.
The size of Red Lake County is 432 square miles
and the 1990 census showed a population of 4525. There are four
incorporated villages in our County. Their names and population
are:
Red Lake Falls 1481
Oklee 450
Plummer 290
Brooks136
There are several other areas that were once
important service centers. These areas have been losing their
population until today there are only a few people living in
earch area. These areas are: Terrabonne, Dorothy, Rolland, Wylie,
Huot, and Marcoux Corner.
We have seven beautiful rivers: Red Lake River,
Clearwater River, lost River, Hill River, Black River Little
Black River, and Poplar River. We also have seven Creeks: Badger
Creek, Cyr Creek, Browns Creek, Brooks Creek, Beau Gerlot Creeek,
Terrebonne Creek, and Kripple Creek.
The Red Lake River has been designated a
navigable Canoe route by the Department of Natural Resources. It
is indeed a scenic route with places along the route where the
bluffs are over 100 feet high, rising almost straight up from the
river.
The two largest rivers in Red Lake County
provide recreation areas during the summer with swimming and
fishing being the most popular. The Red Lake River originates in
Lower Red Lake (Beltrami County) and the Clearwater River flows
out of the Clearwater Lake. The origins of these rivers account
for the good fishing. The sporting fish include Northern Pike,
Walleye, and Catfish. Deer, moose, fox, coyote, ducks, geese,
rabbits, ruffed grouse, sharptail grouse, and hungarian partridge
can all be found in the county. This area has some of the finest
small game, big game, and waterfowl hunting in the state. Near
Red Lake Falls is Timberline Ski Area with several downhill runs.
Also near the ski area are excellent cross-country ski trails and
areas for snowmobiling.
The economy of Red Lake County has been
historically agricultural. The climate and soil conditions have
been favorable for the growing of good quality small grains.
Livestock production is a strong supporting enterprise to the
grain crops. Manufacturing, retail sales and tourism make up
other sectors of the local economy.
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